Turkey > Historic Safranbolu

Today we decide to leave early. We are heading to Safranbolu. It’s nice to have plenty of time to wander through this old town. At exactly eight o’clock, we leave the hotel in Bilecik. We first drive a short distance north, then continue eastward. The planned travel distance is 360 kilometers.

Turkey - The old Ottoman houses of Safranbolu

The main road passes through numerous villages, which means the speed limit keeps changing. Sometimes it’s 110 or 130 km/h, but just as often it’s 70 or 50. For the other traffic, it hardly seems to matter—they drive at high speed regardless. We try to adapt a little to local habits, but stay alert for speed cameras. When we order a drink along the road, two men ask about our travel destination. We tell them about Japan. We are immediately offered tea and invited to sit with them. Although both men speak almost nothing but Turkish, sometimes we feel as if we understand them—or they understand us. But just as often, we don’t. Just before the turnoff to Safranbolu, we overtake an older Land Rover Defender. At the traffic light, the car next to us stops. From the gestures, we gather that the driver likes our car (though he might have meant something else). Around 1:30 p.m., we enter the modern part of Safranbolu. In a restaurant, a man shows us cig köfte. We are allowed to taste it first. It tastes fine, and the dish is served in a wrap. We just wonder whether it’s raw meat as we eat the wrap. We decide to walk to the old town. Asking for directions proves trickier than expected.

Turkey - Everything is for sale at Safranbolu market

We feel as though we are being sent in a different direction each time. Only after asking for the third time does it become clearer. There is a route through a gorge that goes down and then steeply back up, and there is a route for cars that goes around it. We choose the gorge. The old center of Safranbolu is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Numerous Ottoman houses are clustered here, many now occupied by souvenir shops and hotels. Passing by the Kazdagli Mosque and the Cinir Hamam (bathhouse), we arrive at the old caravanserai. Caravans used to stay here during trading trips, and the camels could stand in the courtyard. Today, the caravanserai is a hotel. A man plays with a spinning top. When he sees me watching, he winds it up and places it in my hands. I am allowed to try. I don’t give myself much chance, but what could I lose? I throw the top and pull the string. It spins standing upright! Just behind the caravanserai is the Kaymakamlar Müze Evi, an old traditional Ottoman house. Inside, it’s a bit kitschy. Each room has dolls showing how life used to be. Back at the car, the motorcyclists have found a pension.

Turkey - The beautiful architectural style in Safranbolu

We enter the given coordinates into our navigation. The pension is right in the old town—we had just walked nearby. When I ask a parking attendant where it is exactly, his face lights up when he sees a sign a little further along. He beams that he can help me. With some careful maneuvering, we park the Land Rover snugly against the wall in the narrow street, leaving room for other traffic. The pension is an old Ottoman house. I take off my shoes when entering. The interior is simple: one room with four beds. The wooden floor slopes and creaks—what else would you expect in a house hundreds of years old? The shower and toilet are in the hallway. The showerhead hangs directly over the toilet. Who comes up with these ideas? In the evening, we walk back into the old town. At a restaurant, we order local dishes. We share four different dishes so we can taste a little of everything. While Milko and Wilco go to the barber, the Turkish Saturday football climax is taking place. As the barber works, the barbershop is full of football fans. Several matches are on, and the channel is switched frequently. Although the final seems exciting, I have no idea whether the local favorite wins or loses.