Tajikistan > Bathing in a mineral bath

At breakfast, there is a discussion about which route to take. In Khorog, we can, as planned, head south into the Wakhan Valley, but from here, we could also follow the official Pamir Highway, which goes directly through the mountains to Murgab. Since yesterday’s route already offered the experience of a valley along the Afghan border, the motorcyclists decide to head straight through, creating some extra rest days. We split up and plan to meet again on Saturday at Lake Bulunkul. The distance we plan to cover today isn’t very far—about a hundred kilometers. Over the unpaved roads, it will still take us several hours. In the morning, we check Brutus, top up the oil, wash the car a little, and exchange money at the bank. Khorog is a quiet town. I cross to the other side via the suspension bridge. From there, I have a beautiful view of the town with the enormous mountain ranges behind it. Snow rests on the peaks. These mountains are over six kilometers high.

Tajikistan - Cleaning the windshield for the dashcam

At twelve o’clock, we say goodbye for a few days and leave Khorog. The road follows the river. Again today, the views are stunning. Halfway along, there is a turnoff to the Garam Chashma mineral baths. Due to the mineral deposits on the rocks, it’s a beautiful spot for a swim. Unfortunately, we arrive too early for the men’s swimming hour. We could use the indoor pool, but that doesn’t seem as appealing. We park by the mountain river and set up our chairs in the shade under the trees. Waiting here is not unpleasant at all. At exactly half past three, we are back at the entrance to the Garam Chashma hot springs. This time we can go in. The minerals have created a beautiful white coating on the rocks around the outdoor pool. Several men are already in the bath. I feel a bit self-conscious entering with my swim trunks, as everyone else is naked. The water is very warm—I estimate over 35 degrees Celsius.

Tajikistan - The mineral bath of Garam Chashma

The men in the water gesture for me to just jump in. I plunge into the warm water and sit on an underwater bench. Soon, the question arises whether we speak Russian. We don’t, but with gestures, we become increasingly adept at communicating. Usually, the first question is where we are from, and the second is where we are going. Even if I don’t understand the question, I answer in that order. The man next to me is from Dushanbe, I understand. He translates our travel plans to Tokyo for the other bathers. From Garam Chashma, it’s about a two-hour drive to Ishkashim. The valley along the Afghan border widens. In some areas, a green oasis appears. It seems like a nicer place to stay. The wind picks up. Trees sway and sand blows across the road. The air is dusty and hazy. Could worse weather be coming? Around six o’clock, we arrive in Ishkashim. According to the GPS, we are practically in front of a homestay. It seems like a good place to spend the night. In a nearby little shop, we buy some beer. We return just in time for dinner—soup with plov. There are two other Dutch travelers (Evert and Manon) staying here as well. They are traveling from Tashkent to Bishkek. It’s nice to hear about their travel experiences.