Kyrgyzstan > The Throne of Solomon

We’re just over halfway in terms of kilometers. Time for a major service for the car. Near the hotel, there’s a small garage. The young man in the garage is startled when we drive up—he had been playing on his phone. He quickly calls someone, probably the owner. When the owner arrives, he immediately takes the phone. He has someone on the line who speaks English. We explain that we want to change the oil. This is then translated into Russian. We also replace the oil filter, diesel filter, and air filter. Under the car, we check the various reservoirs and inspect the grease points. It immediately feels like the car is running more smoothly again. Unfortunately, the garage doesn’t have oil for the gearbox. We drive to another supplier, where we buy an extra bottle and refill the power steering reservoir. The car is ready for the coming weeks.

Kyrgyzstan - A large statue in Osh

We spend the afternoon exploring Osh. First, we visit the Lenin monument. Osh has the largest Lenin statue in Kyrgyzstan. Then we drive to the “Throne of Solomon” rocks. It is said that the Prophet Mohammed visited these rocks and prayed here. The rocks are a genuine pilgrimage site for Muslims. The three rock peaks rise high above the city. The entrance is supposed to be next to the futuristic silver dome. When we think we’ve spotted it, we are actually standing next to the dome of the Rabat Abdullah Khan Mosque. Inside, the mosque is simply furnished. Interestingly, two little boys are eating ice cream inside—the mosque, even during Ramadan. A woman points out that we should follow the fence, and that the entrance is further along. It turns out to be quite a walk. We pass a restaurant with a rooftop terrace, so we stop for lunch first. Then we buy a ticket and climb the Throne of Solomon. From the top, I have a magnificent view over the city of Osh. I can see the bazaar, the Lenin statue, and the neighborhood where my hotel is located. We follow a narrow path along the mountain peaks. On the other side, there is a museum. I have no idea what is displayed inside. At the entrance, a sign says 50 som, but we are asked to pay 150 som—a special rate for foreigners. We decide not to go in. On the other side, we walk back down the mountain, ending up near the mosque again, where our car is parked. Back at the hotel, “Mali” has also arrived—the van belonging to Reinier and Anna. Behind it is another Dutch car, also a camper-style vehicle. It’s bizarre to see three Dutch cars parked in a row in a Kyrgyz city. In the afternoon, I go looking for a barber. The hotel owner draws a small map with directions. The barber doesn’t speak a word of English, and I don’t speak Russian. Yet we manage. First, my hair is washed, and then it is cut very carefully. Kyrgyz hair is much coarser and therefore requires a different technique. I’m happy with the result. For dinner, we settle on a sort of outdoor terrace. Kyrgyz families also come here to eat extensively after sunset. We watch what they order and do the same. All in all, a very good choice.